Winter Frequently Asked Questions

How do I use the various ski characteristics (sidecut, flex, length) to make a descision about skis?

Now that you know what the terminology means (see previous question), let's examine how you can use it to deconstruct the soul of a given ski.

Waist Width: This is typically the dimension used to define the application of a ski.

~72mm and below. Carvers. On skis with narrow widths, the transition from one edge to the other takes less time to complete. If transitions are faster, then you spend more time on your edges and the skis will hold better on harder snow without washing out and skidding inappropriately. Boards in this category are often called Carving Skis and are the most fun on groomed trails. Think of all those times when you've started turning on a bare spot (where the snow has been scraped away to reveal an ice-like layer) and had to bail and just go straight; the right Carvers can usually bite into this stuff with confidence.
74mm to 88mm. Mid-Fat. We consider these widths to be All-Mountain or Mid-Fat in the East, and as the names suggest, are found on skis that can tackle the terrain on the entire mountain. What you get is a wider platform that affords more stability and float in natural snow. Natural snow can be anything from untracked powder to thick spring mush, and narrower skis will cause you to fall more often in these unpredictable conditions. Par example, a ski that is 78mm at the waist will provide good edgehold on the groomers - just not as good as a 67er (assuming both have the same construction & flex) - but it will also make glade runs or backcountry forays all the more enjoyable.
88mm - 100mm. Fat. These skis are definitely portly, gluttonous powder indulgers. They fit snugly into the Fat category. They make short work of powder but wash out more easily on hardpack, unable to cut sharp ribbons as preciscely as the Carvers, though most still ski suprisingly well on groomed snow. Perfect for the backcountry and able to handle just about anything mother nature can dump, thaw and refreeze. Great for someone does more off-trail skiing than on and avoids the race course.
100mm - 130mm+. Super-Fat. Only powder skiers need apply. We don't stock skis of this width at Omer and Bob's because few people would ever buy them for local (Upper Valley) usage. They usually possess minimal sidecut, soft flexes and the flotation of a thousand life preservers. A powder diet proportional to their width is required to sustain them. If you like to put in the extra work to find the deep, untracked stuff, and you ski the Northern Green mountains or the Whites (and you already own three other pairs of skis), these could be for you.

Sidecut / Turn-Radius: There is no perfect amount of sidecut for each level of skier; it's all based on personal preference.

Short-Radius (10 to 14 meters). They allow beginners and intermediates the ability to carve turns at lower speeds and on slopes with more moderate angles. Experts will enjoy ripping tight, ultra-quick turns on any terrain. Often refered to as a Slalom sidecut, because Slalom races feature tightly spaced gates and favor quick-turning boards. The more advanced slalom-cut skis definately require strength and technique to handle because, by design, they constantly yearn to turn. Note that many of the shorter, women's specific skis have turn radii in this range: since turn radius is a function of ski length, a tighter radius is the natural result.
Medium-Radius (about 14 to 16 meters). Here you have skis that can be brought around in tighter turns or longer radius arcs, depending on your speed and edge pressure. Makes a variety of turn shapes.
Long-Radius (17 meters and above). These skis hold an edge better during longer radius, high speed turns. They will generally be more stable and track straighter at higher speeds because of the relatively smaller shovel and tail widths. Long-radius skis are better in moguls because the aggressive sidecut doesn't catch (and most of the turns are in the air). Less sidecut is generally better in powder as well, because a ski with a more uniform surface area will float better. Called a Giant Slalom or GS sidecut because of the penchant for long, sweeping turns.

Longitudinal Flex:

Softer. A softer-flexing ski takes less effort to pressure into a turn. Skis designed for less advanced skiers are softer for easy turning at low speeds and without precise technqiue. But softer skis are also the best in powder, because the soft flex keeps the ski above the snow rather than plunging it beneath. Also, it is the soft flex of a ski that allows it to be flexed into a turn in powder, not the sidecut--sidecut only swings your skis into a turn when it is pressed against a firm base. High speeds and hard turns are their weakness; the skis will wash out more easily on hardpack and feel chattery and unstable while straight-lining.
Stiffer. Provides the most edge-holding power, but requires the most energy from a skier to control. Advanced skis usually have more metal laminate in the body to provide this stiffness. The stiffer the ski, the more power and technqiue are necessary. You'll be able to attack steeper slopes with the confidence that your skis will hold the turns. Skis with stiff flexes are not the best choice for powder because they tend to submarine, and stiffer skis are heavier, which means more work in the backcountry.

Length: As far as length goes, there could be two or even three different lengths in a specific model suited to certain uses and ability levels at the same skier weight. Manufacturers provide us with suggested weight ranges for each ski model. Generally speaking, the ski tips should hit you somewhere in the face, but this will be modified by how and where you intend to ski, as well as by the characteristics of your skis.

Shorter. In the same ski model, the shorter skis have softer flexes. This means that they require less effort and technique to put on edge, a trait that makes them friendlier to beginners. A shorter ski also has a tighter turning radius. If you ski gladed runs (where short turns are necessary to avoid eating bark) or just like making quick carves, shorter skis are probably for you. For most skiing in the New England backcountry on its narrow, winding trails, shorter skis make the most sense.
Longer. In contrast, a longer ski of the same model has a stiffer flex, which translates to better edgehold and vibration damping (absorbtion) at higher speeds. Longer skis float better in powder as well because of their increased running surface. Their stiffer flex means a skier has to put more muscle and up-and-down movement into each carve, however, so make sure you're up to the task. Longer turn radii make them great for sweeping GS turns.

Though you can easily isolate several attributes of a single ski model and disscet them under a microscope, remember that ski construction is like mixing cocktails. All the individual properties blend together to form something unique. This is where the fine fellows at Omer and Bob's can help you. We've collectively demoed hundreds of skis, so come on in and take advantage of our knowledge and experience.

back to FAQ



Bike: Johnny's 10 Bike Tips Local MTB Rides Ski & Board: How-To Waxing Guide Winter Ski/Board F.A.Q. 06-07 Ski Gallery		Winter Frequently Asked Questions back to FAQ How do I use the various ski characteristics (sidecut, flex, length) to make a descision about skis? Now that you know what the terminology means (see previous question), let's examine how you can use it to deconstruct the soul of a given ski. Waist Width: This is typically the dimension used to define the application of a ski. ~72mm and below. Carvers. On skis with narrow widths, the transition from one edge to the other takes less time to complete. If transitions are faster, then you spend more time on your edges and the skis will hold better on harder snow without washing out and skidding inappropriately. Boards in this category are often called Carving Skis and are the most fun on groomed trails. Think of all those times when you've started turning on a bare spot (where the snow has been scraped away to reveal an ice-like layer) and had to bail and just go straight; the right Carvers can usually bite into this stuff with confidence. 74mm to 88mm. Mid-Fat. We consider these widths to be All-Mountain or Mid-Fat in the East, and as the names suggest, are found on skis that can tackle the terrain on the entire mountain. What you get is a wider platform that affords more stability and float in natural snow. Natural snow can be anything from untracked powder to thick spring mush, and narrower skis will cause you to fall more often in these unpredictable conditions. Par example, a ski that is 78mm at the waist will provide good edgehold on the groomers - just not as good as a 67er (assuming both have the same construction & flex) - but it will also make glade runs or backcountry forays all the more enjoyable. 88mm - 100mm. Fat. These skis are definitely portly, gluttonous powder indulgers. They fit snugly into the Fat category. They make short work of powder but wash out more easily on hardpack, unable to cut sharp ribbons as preciscely as the Carvers, though most still ski suprisingly well on groomed snow. Perfect for the backcountry and able to handle just about anything mother nature can dump, thaw and refreeze. Great for someone does more off-trail skiing than on and avoids the race course. 100mm - 130mm+. Super-Fat. Only powder skiers need apply. We don't stock skis of this width at Omer and Bob's because few people would ever buy them for local (Upper Valley) usage. They usually possess minimal sidecut, soft flexes and the flotation of a thousand life preservers. A powder diet proportional to their width is required to sustain them. If you like to put in the extra work to find the deep, untracked stuff, and you ski the Northern Green mountains or the Whites (and you already own three other pairs of skis), these could be for you. Sidecut / Turn-Radius: There is no perfect amount of sidecut for each level of skier; it's all based on personal preference. Short-Radius (10 to 14 meters). They allow beginners and intermediates the ability to carve turns at lower speeds and on slopes with more moderate angles. Experts will enjoy ripping tight, ultra-quick turns on any terrain. Often refered to as a Slalom sidecut, because Slalom races feature tightly spaced gates and favor quick-turning boards. The more advanced slalom-cut skis definately require strength and technique to handle because, by design, they constantly yearn to turn. Note that many of the shorter, women's specific skis have turn radii in this range: since turn radius is a function of ski length, a tighter radius is the natural result. Medium-Radius (about 14 to 16 meters). Here you have skis that can be brought around in tighter turns or longer radius arcs, depending on your speed and edge pressure. Makes a variety of turn shapes. Long-Radius (17 meters and above). These skis hold an edge better during longer radius, high speed turns. They will generally be more stable and track straighter at higher speeds because of the relatively smaller shovel and tail widths. Long-radius skis are better in moguls because the aggressive sidecut doesn't catch (and most of the turns are in the air). Less sidecut is generally better in powder as well, because a ski with a more uniform surface area will float better. Called a Giant Slalom or GS sidecut because of the penchant for long, sweeping turns. Longitudinal Flex: Softer. A softer-flexing ski takes less effort to pressure into a turn. Skis designed for less advanced skiers are softer for easy turning at low speeds and without precise technqiue. But softer skis are also the best in powder, because the soft flex keeps the ski above the snow rather than plunging it beneath. Also, it is the soft flex of a ski that allows it to be flexed into a turn in powder, not the sidecut--sidecut only swings your skis into a turn when it is pressed against a firm base. High speeds and hard turns are their weakness; the skis will wash out more easily on hardpack and feel chattery and unstable while straight-lining. Stiffer. Provides the most edge-holding power, but requires the most energy from a skier to control. Advanced skis usually have more metal laminate in the body to provide this stiffness. The stiffer the ski, the more power and technqiue are necessary. You'll be able to attack steeper slopes with the confidence that your skis will hold the turns. Skis with stiff flexes are not the best choice for powder because they tend to submarine, and stiffer skis are heavier, which means more work in the backcountry. Length: As far as length goes, there could be two or even three different lengths in a specific model suited to certain uses and ability levels at the same skier weight. Manufacturers provide us with suggested weight ranges for each ski model. Generally speaking, the ski tips should hit you somewhere in the face, but this will be modified by how and where you intend to ski, as well as by the characteristics of your skis. Shorter. In the same ski model, the shorter skis have softer flexes. This means that they require less effort and technique to put on edge, a trait that makes them friendlier to beginners. A shorter ski also has a tighter turning radius. If you ski gladed runs (where short turns are necessary to avoid eating bark) or just like making quick carves, shorter skis are probably for you. For most skiing in the New England backcountry on its narrow, winding trails, shorter skis make the most sense. Longer. In contrast, a longer ski of the same model has a stiffer flex, which translates to better edgehold and vibration damping (absorbtion) at higher speeds. Longer skis float better in powder as well because of their increased running surface. Their stiffer flex means a skier has to put more muscle and up-and-down movement into each carve, however, so make sure you're up to the task. Longer turn radii make them great for sweeping GS turns. Though you can easily isolate several attributes of a single ski model and disscet them under a microscope, remember that ski construction is like mixing cocktails. All the individual properties blend together to form something unique. This is where the fine fellows at Omer and Bob's can help you. We've collectively demoed hundreds of skis, so come on in and take advantage of our knowledge and experience. back to FAQ