Waxing Guide

How about kick waxes for Nordic skiing? Proper application?

Kick wax is what provides traction on waxable cross-country skis. Each canister of wax is designed to function properly in a certain temperature range, because snow crystals change in character as the temperature fluctuates. Colder, drier snow tends to be harder with sharp edges. Warm snow is softer with rounder crystals. Traction is created when the crystals penetrate the layer of kick wax you so diligently applied. The wax must be soft enough to allow the snow to bite in for grip but not so soft that it doesn't release the snow underfoot and allow easy gliding. To match the hardness of snow, colder temperature waxes are harder and warmer waxes are softer, just as it is with their cousin glide waxes. The temperatures described on the wax tins actually correspond to the snow temperature, but most of us simply use the air temperature as our wax-selection gauge; most of the time the two end up being roughly equivalent, but let your common sense guide you (or that of a friend, if your common sense so requires).

Crayon the wax over the kick zone of your Nordic skis by making longitudinal stripes on each side of the base groove. Try not to goop it on. Remember, if you possess kindergarten-level skills with a crayon, you should have no problems. Then use a cork with an even downward pressure to smooth it into a single transparent layer. To get the best possible and longest-lasting grip, try to add and smooth another two to four layers over the first. It takes a little technique and a soft touch to maintain the integrity of each layer. This method will force our foe friction to act upon one layer at a time rather than the entire wax job, and a smooth layer will glide easier than a thick and clumpy one.

Do give your skis fifteen minutes or so to adjust to the outdoor temperature and allow the wax to "set up" before you ski or you may find yourself hurling poles and stomping feet to remove clumped up snow.

How often do you have to reapply? Most people ski and then leave whatever remains of the kick wax on. If conditions are unchanged the next time you go, just strengthen the kick zone with more of the same. If temperature drops you should follow the peanut butter and jelly metaphor. Remove the softer wax and apply harder, colder wax in its stead.

Use a plastic scraper and base cleaner (applied sparingly) with a clean rag to remove old kick wax when necessary. Ideally you'll lay down a fresh coat for every time out, but many of us will try to reuse a previous day's wax job if it is not too dirty.

Swix V60
A soft, warm temp wax

Swix V20
A harder, cold temp wax.

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Bike: Johnny's 10 Bike Tips Local MTB Rides Ski & Board: How-To Waxing Guide Winter Ski/Board F.A.Q. 06-07 Ski Gallery		Waxing Guide back to FAQ How about kick waxes for Nordic skiing? Proper application? Kick wax is what provides traction on waxable cross-country skis. Each canister of wax is designed to function properly in a certain temperature range, because snow crystals change in character as the temperature fluctuates. Colder, drier snow tends to be harder with sharp edges. Warm snow is softer with rounder crystals. Traction is created when the crystals penetrate the layer of kick wax you so diligently applied. The wax must be soft enough to allow the snow to bite in for grip but not so soft that it doesn't release the snow underfoot and allow easy gliding. To match the hardness of snow, colder temperature waxes are harder and warmer waxes are softer, just as it is with their cousin glide waxes. The temperatures described on the wax tins actually correspond to the snow temperature, but most of us simply use the air temperature as our wax-selection gauge; most of the time the two end up being roughly equivalent, but let your common sense guide you (or that of a friend, if your common sense so requires). Crayon the wax over the kick zone of your Nordic skis by making longitudinal stripes on each side of the base groove. Try not to goop it on. Remember, if you possess kindergarten-level skills with a crayon, you should have no problems. Then use a cork with an even downward pressure to smooth it into a single transparent layer. To get the best possible and longest-lasting grip, try to add and smooth another two to four layers over the first. It takes a little technique and a soft touch to maintain the integrity of each layer. This method will force our foe friction to act upon one layer at a time rather than the entire wax job, and a smooth layer will glide easier than a thick and clumpy one. Do give your skis fifteen minutes or so to adjust to the outdoor temperature and allow the wax to "set up" before you ski or you may find yourself hurling poles and stomping feet to remove clumped up snow. How often do you have to reapply? Most people ski and then leave whatever remains of the kick wax on. If conditions are unchanged the next time you go, just strengthen the kick zone with more of the same. If temperature drops you should follow the peanut butter and jelly metaphor. Remove the softer wax and apply harder, colder wax in its stead. Use a plastic scraper and base cleaner (applied sparingly) with a clean rag to remove old kick wax when necessary. Ideally you'll lay down a fresh coat for every time out, but many of us will try to reuse a previous day's wax job if it is not too dirty. Swix V60 A soft, warm temp wax Swix V20 A harder, cold temp wax. back to FAQ